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FOG MACHINE CHILLER
Do not glue these pieces of the intake assembly together. Once they are pushed together they will stay in place. This way if you need to swivel the section or disassemble it you'll be able to. To prevent fog from leaking out around the connectors, you need to seal the two four inch double-female connectors at both ends of the chest with some clear silicone caulk or sealant. Be sure to apply the sealant both inside and outside of the cooler, and then let it dry thoroughly according to the sealant directions before using the fog chiller.
Standard sized ice cubes work great. You should try to avoid very small ice cubes as they might slip through the screen wire into the cooling chamber and impede the flow of the fog. Using dry ice will improve performance, but dry ice costs a lot more.
The original info can be found at: |
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The
ice-chest is the standard type found in most department stores and only
costs around $15.00, but be sure to keep an eye out at garage sales for
a used (and cheaper) one. The ABS plastic pipe and connectors are simple
to work with, can be found in the plumbing department at all major
hardware stores, and the pieces slip together easily.
The
first step is to cut a hole through each end of the ice-chest. We used a
4" bi-metal hole saw attached to an electric drill to easily cut
perfectly round holes through the center of each end. These unique saw
blades (Vermont American Tool Company) can be found at most hardware
stores. The bits are a little expensive at around $25.00, so an
alternative would be to use a compass to the mark the circle for the
hole and then use a jig-saw to cut it out.
Using
wire cutters, cut the 1/2" screen wire into a X inch by 12 inch
piece. The "X" represents the inside length of the cooler
(19-1/2 inches with ours). When cutting the length-wise side cut the
further end of the wire so that they are left to stick out. These will
be used to attached the wire to its self when rolled (pictured
below-left).
Roll
the screen wire piece around a spare piece of 3 inch ABS pipe so that it
has a basic tube shape. Lower the wire tube into the cooler and slide
the 3" id double-female connectors through the holes you cut so
that an equal amount sticks out either side. Twist the screen wire into
as tight a tube as you can and attach the clamps.
Using
needle-nose pliers, bend those end wires you purposely left on under and
over the lower screen wire to hold it in its tube shape (pictured
center). If a few of these break off its not a problem, but if a lot
break off you may need to use some light-weight bailing wire to
re-enforce the seam of the wire cage. What you should have is a
tube-shaped wire cage that is attached at both ends of the chest
(pictured right). This is the chamber that the fog will pass through and
be cooled in.
To
help camouflage the unit at night, you will want to paint the exterior
of the chest with flat black spray paint.
Unfortunately,
paint does not stick to the plastic very well, so you will want to prime
the ice-chest first. Zinsser B-I-N Primer, available at the hardware
store, is a Shellac based Primer-Sealer that works well to prime the
plastic ice-chest before painting, and it dries pretty fast. Allow the
paint and caulk to dry for 24 hours.
Since
we cut the mid-section of 3 inch ABS pipe that runs between the two
elbow joints extra long for final adjustment, you will need to set your
fog machine on top of the Fog Chiller and cut off any excess ABS pipe
until the fog machine's exit nozzle is aligned with the Fog
Chillers intake nozzle. Don't cut off to much or you will have to
replace the pipe.
Your
Fog Chilling unit is now complete and ready to
go. When you're ready to use it all you
have to do is fill it up to the top with ordinary ice cubes (ours took
35 pounds) and close the lid tightly.
During
use, align the the fog machines exit nozzle to be centered with and
about an inch away from the Fog Chillers intake nozzle. This allows
outside cool air to be drawn in during operation. The
trick to getting the best low lying fog is to use short bursts from your
fog machine, separated by a few seconds to allow cold air to refill the
cooling chamber.
If
you need to direct the exiting fog, you can also attach a section of
five inch diameter flexible tubing to the exit pipe on the Fog Chiller
to direct the fog where you want it. In general, you don't want to
attach more than six or eight feet of tubing, as the fog won't have
enough power to travel through its entire length.